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Spawning spores for future fruit

Annie Spratt
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Unsplash

For me, as a cook, winter is a season of refinement. With little fresh produce coming out of the ground, you lean hard on what was preserved from the fall and what can survive the cold months. Root vegetables—carrots, turnips, radishes—slow their growth beneath frost blankets and hoop houses, protected from hard freezes overnight. Cooking this time of year means working through the pantry, stretching ingredients, and getting creative. That’s why fresh winter deliveries always feel like a small celebration.

One of those bright spots is Eric Meyers of Myers Mushrooms. Eric began growing mushrooms while stationed at Fort Bliss, and after 14 years as an Air Force mechanic, he brought that technical training with him to Kansas. Today, Eric and his wife Joana operate a 2,800-square-foot mushroom facility in Haysville, supplying chefs around Wichita.

At our kitchen, we go through 10 to 20 pounds of oyster mushrooms each week. They show up everywhere; from sautés to our veggie burger, where we roast and grind them to concentrate flavor and build texture.

Eric has also become a mentor, offering training and supplies to new growers and pushing research and development in mushroom cultivation. And this fall, he made room for new growth-running for Haysville City Council and winning.

In the darker months, when the sun sets before the drive home, I’m grateful for growers like Eric—people still finding ways to grow, serve, and strengthen their community.

Travis Russell is the owner and chef of the Public at the Brickyard in Wichita, Kansas. The restaurant prides itself on serving local ingredients and micro-brews to customers in historic Old Town. Russell was born and raised in Wichita, Kansas, attending Wichita North High School. He currently lives in College Hill with his wife Brooke, their sons Theo and Arlo, and their three dogs Obi, Rosie and Daisy.