It’s harvest season in Kansas. While much of the state’s 300 million bushels of wheat have already been collected, another grain — Kernza — is quietly being harvested in select areas - where it’s taken root.
Kernza is a perennial grain, developed from intermediate wheatgrass. Its roots grow up to 10 feet deep, making it a powerful tool for soil health and carbon storage. The Land Institute in Salina, Kansas, trademarked Kernza in 2009 and has led efforts in its development.
I first encountered Kernza in 2018, during a project by Harvester Arts and visiting artist George Ferrandi. A group of chefs, including myself, prepared dishes we imagined could represent the future of agriculture. We cooked in a small test kitchen at the United Methodist Church in Council Grove — Kernza was the focus of our menu.
Fast forward to 2024, when James Bowen of Sustain-a-Grain visited me. He explained their mission to bring Kernza from the field to the table. Sustain-a-Grain, founded by Brandon Kaufman and Dr. Brandon Schlautman in 2018, partners with family farms and processes Kernza grown near Moundridge. Last year, they harvested roughly 250,000 pounds.
They also launched Kernza for Kansas, a campaign to build a network of chefs, brewers, and farmers. I attended the conference, and was inspired to try it at Public - where we baked it into sourdough, made pasta, and tossed it into salads. With a nutty, earthy flavor and 18–20% protein, it’s a grain worth celebrating — and sustaining.
